Places to climb in North Wales when the weather is dodgy (I) - the Dinorwig slate quarry

North Wales has a huge variety of locations and different rock types to climb; from sea cliff to mountain crag; from slate, to limestone, to rhyolite.

Wind, rain, and changing weather conditions can make it difficult to find good climbing on any given day. I find this especially frustrating on short visits when I want to make the most of limited time.

When the conditions are unsettled (intermittent rain, damp, but not torrential downpours across the whole region, when the best option is to stay indoors, or go to the zoo!), I have found that the range of locations and rock types in the region mean that it is often possible to find somewhere in good condition for climbing, and somewhere I won't feel out of my depth if weather conditions change suddenly.

Australia, Dinorwig

The Dinorwig quarry is a huge old slate workings in the hillside near Llanberis. Slate was quarried here for over a hundred years, although production ceased in the middle of the last century. Parts of the quarry are now used for hydroelectricity generation, and it has had occasional film roles when a forboding location was needed.

From the main road into Llanberis the quarry look dark and menacing, but up close it is more inviting.  It is warm and sheltered, the rock is clean and solid, and plants have gained a foothold, bringing the place to life. There is also a lot of rusting industrial equipment, some tunnels, and derelict buildings that add to the atmosphere and highlight the human origins of the place.

The Sidings area, Dinorwig

I took the above photo one morning after a rainy night - many climbers had come to the quarry to take advantage of the conditions there. Slate dries quickly, there is minimal seepage, and some aspects of the quarries are in the sun for most of the day. Combined with the facts that the quarry is terraced, which provides a series of broad ledges and short single pitch routes, and many routes are a short walk from the car park or bus stop, this a great climbing location after a rainy spell. If the rain comes back, I can quickly get back to the car, head into Llanberis, drink tea, and wait for the rain to stop.

There are lots of the routes in the quarry, from low grade sport climbs to hard trad routes, providing something for everyone. Many of the routes, including some of the trad routes, are bolt protected, so it possible to make a quick dash into the quarry, and out again if needed, carrying a minimal rack.