We set off just after dawn with the intention of climbing Moel Siabod via Daear Ddu - a grade I winter route described in Dan Bailey’s The Ridges of England Wales and Ireland. Moel Siabod is the highest peak in the Moelwyns (at 872 metres) and Daear Ddu is its rocky southeast ridge. The mountain lies southwest of Capel Curig, and lends itself to a circular route, starting and finishing at the Pinnacle Cafe in the village.
Snow covered Capel Curig, but the roads were clear. We walked up the A5 from Pinnacle Cafe towards Betws-y-Coed until we reached a bridge crossing the river, we then followed a path across the bridge and into the woods on the northeastern slopes of Moel Siabod.
The Snowdon peaks rose to the west; heavy snowfall blanketed the range and the mountains glowed in the morning sun.
Snow weighed down branches and lay deep upon the ground. We were warmed by the exertion of breaking a trail through the deep powder, and by the sun rising over the hills.
We left the woods and started to climb a farm track that leads to Moel Siabod. This was our first good look at the peak, although the rocky Daear Ddu ridge was still hidden. The sun shone and the air was still, but sheep that had been left out in the fields huddled together for warmth.
We passed three lakes that were frozen and covered in snow. Above the first lake we attempted to practice ice axe arrests, but the deep powder snow stopped slides more effectively than an ice axe. The second lake was a quarry pit surrounded by icicle-clad cliffs. There were loud cracks as icicles, warmed by the sun, fell into the lake. The third lake, Llyn-y-Foel, was in a cwm beneath the rocky south face of Moel Siabod. Trails on the slopes above Llyn-y-Foel marked the paths of small avalanches.
We crossed the cwm to the base of Daear Ddu where we would start the final push to the summit. The effort of moving through deep snow was taking its toll.
At the base of Daear Ddu we stopped to drink coffee. We sat in a hastily excavated snow seat, faces to the sun, and our backs resting against a crag.
Visibility was perfect - the view from our makeshift seat stretched southwards across the landscape. Finally we put our ice axes to good use - the small crag we had sat against was ideal for ice climbing practice! By the time we finished our coffee an easterly wind had picked up and we felt the effects in our legs of three hours ploughing through deep powder. We put on our ski goggles, turned to face the wind, and retraced our steps back to Capel Curig. Daear Ddu would have to wait until next time.